Mr. Brian the Zambian taxi driver stepped into our huddle and announced, “I can see that you are not from here… I will sacrifice myself for you for this day.
But it isn't the sea. We're in the middle of an open plain, flat as far as the eye can see. There is no ocean. The sound is the sound of the Zambezi river throwing itself over a cliff again and again and again and plummeting to the bottom almost three thousand meters below.